The Topkapi Palace in Istanbul is more than just an incredible building. The name, which meant “Cannon Gate,” was designed by a young conqueror, and home to many Ottoman sultans over almost four centuries and was the backdrop to a powerful empire in history. The palace grounds were the private residences of Ottoman sultans, and from there, they hosted many foreign dignitaries and ruled their lands.
This continued for over 400 years until the dynasty built the new Dolmabahce Palace to match and outrank Western royalty. Unfortunately, their family bloodline didn’t withstand the test of time. However, Topkapi Palace is now a top tourist attraction in Istanbul, alongside the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Basilica cistern. Before you visit, though, it helps to know the background story.
About the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul - Turkey
Beginning of the Royal Residence
After the 15th-century Ottoman conquest of Constantinople, Fatih Sultan Mehmet, the conqueror, found the Great Palace of Constantinople in ruins and certainly no suitable residence. Although he was just 23, Mehmet had some grand plans - not limited to world domination - with Istanbul the heart of the new empire.
The Conqueror looked around for the perfect site and hit upon Sarayburnu, a hilly site with views over the Golden Horn, the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus. During Greek and Byzantine times, Sarayburnu housed the Acropolis of the ancient Byzantian. Either by coincidence or design, Mehmet found his empire in the place where the original city was founded.
Design and Construction
Under Sultan Mehmed II's critical eye, the building began in 1459 and was completed six years later. The Conqueror designed the basic layout, deciding that the highest point would become his private quarters. Buildings and pavilions grew outwards from this core, spreading down towards the Bosphorus shores.
The structure, surrounded by high walls, incorporated the walls of the ancient acropolis. When completed, the palace featured five kilometres of walls and occupied 700,000 square metres. Employing only the best workers from all over his kingdom, they used only the highest-quality materials.
Changes to the Palace Over the Years
The palace underwent various changes as centuries passed, although Sultan Mehmed II's basic structure remained. Between 1520 and 1560, Sultan Suleyman made many changes, wanting the Ottoman Empire's growing power and influence to shine.
A fire destroyed the kitchens in 1574, but Sultan Selim II instructed his favourite architect, Mimar Sinan, to rebuild them. Acem Ali is also credited with many designs throughout, and under the rule of Murad III, David Aga was another architect who made his name here. In addition to their rebuilding, Selim II ordered the harem expansion and a few shoreline pavilions. In 1792 Sultan Selim III made renovations, as did Sultan Mahmud II in the 19th century.
By the end of that century, the palace looked much like it does today. The result was a large complex of assorted buildings laid out in a rough rectangle. Few buildings are higher than two stories, built around courtyards, and connected by galleries and passages. Trees, gardens, and water fountains give the complex a natural, restful feel.
Colourful Characters
The opulent palace was a centre for intrigue and drama. Selim the Sot drowned in his bath after drinking too much champagne. Sultan Ibrahim the Mad was so-called after a period of imprisonment lasting 22 years by his brother Murat IV. Murat had already killed four of his brothers, and Ibrahim lived in terror that he would be next. Another intriguing character is Roxelana, concubine and eventually wife of Suleyman the Magnificent, who ruled in the 16th century. Due to her influence and astonishing rise to power, Roxelana plotted with her husband to overthrow enemies.
Visiting the Topkapi Palace Museum
Like all grand palaces of Europe, the palace was an imperial residence and the seat of government. The thousands of residents had little need to venture outside: the castle and its grounds were a self-contained city with libraries, schools, mosques, doctors, kitchens, and its own water supply.
You will need at least three hours to tour the palace collection, Hagia Irene museum, and other delights like the outer treasury. Some people buy the Istanbul Museum pass, which allows them to visit different places and includes the entrance fee.
First Court
The Ottoman practice was to segregate people according to status. So, the first court opened to everyone, the second to people on government business, and the third and fourth only to the imperial family, VIPs, and staff. After entering through the Imperial Gate, visitors arrive in the first court, called the Janissaries Court. On your left is the 6th-century Byzantine church Aya Irini (Hagia Irene / Hagia Eirene).
Second Court
The Middle Gate takes you to the Second Court. Built in 1524, the gate allowed only the sultan and his mother to pass on horseback—everyone else had to dismount. The beautiful, green setting contains a building with a collection of imperial carriages, kitchens that fed thousands of people and the Imperial Council Hall, where officials discussed matters of state. Also called the Imperial Council Chamber, the tower of justice called the Kulesi marks its spot.
Topkapi Harem for the Wives and Concubines
Visitors need a separate ticket to visit the Harem, and we highly recommend you do so as it's a tour highlight. The popular perception is that the Harem was a place of evil. But the reality was that the Harem was a place for family gatherings and governed by law and tradition.
The occupants were always foreigners, as Islam forbade enslaving Muslims. The girls were bought as enslaved people or given as gifts from nobles. The girls learned about Islam and Ottoman culture, as well as how to dress, play instruments and sew, and read and write. After training, they became ladies waiting for the concubines and children. They were allowed to meet the sultan if they showed promise and beauty.
The sultan was allowed to have four wives and as many concubines as he could support. Some sultans had up to 300 concubines, and one even fathered 112 children. Interestingly, the Ottomans did not automatically grant the first-born son the throne, so all the ladies fought to have their sons proclaimed heir.
The Harem covers over six levels, but only a dozen rooms are open to the public. Highlights include the Black Eunuchs Courtyard, the Courtyard of the Concubines & the Sultan's Consorts, Apartments of the Valide Sultan, the grand Imperial Hall, the ornate Privy Chambers of Murat III, and Ahmet I, the Fruit Room, and the Twin Kiosk/Apartments of the Crown Prince. Keep an eye out for the 17th-century Iznik tiles that are virtually everywhere. In those days, Iznik tiles were a sign of luxury and excellent craftsmanship.
Third Court
The Gate of Felicity marked the entrance into the sultan's private quarters and inner palace school. Just inside the gate is the 16th-century Audience Chamber, where officials and ambassadors conduct state business. Behind this is the 18th-century Library of Ahmet III.
To the right of the Audience Chamber, you can see an impressive collection of imperial robes, kaftans, and uniforms. On the other side, there are holy relics in the Sacred Safekeeping Rooms. The relics include the Prophet Mohammed's footprint, the rod of Moses, and the sword of the Prophet David. The largest mosque, the Agalar Camii, is also here.
The Imperial Treasury
The treasury stores priceless works of art and boasts an incredible view from the balcony terrace. Check out the jewelled sword of Suleyman the Magnificent and Ahmet I's throne. The suit of chain mail belonged to Sultan Mustafa III, and in the second room were tiny Indian figures made from seed pearls.
In the fourth room, the Treasury's most famous exhibit, the mid-18th-century Topkapi Dagger, has three giant emeralds and a watch in its pommel. There's also an 86-carat diamond, the world's fifth-largest diamond. Called the Spoon Maker’s Diamond, the jewel found in a rubbish dump was sold by a street pedlar for three spoons, hence the name.
Fourth Court - The Tulip Gardens
The Fourth Court is full of pleasure, including the Baghdad kiosk, also called the Baghdad pavilion, built by Sultan Murad IV. At the top of the stairs at the end of the garden are three terrace kiosks and a marble terrace containing a pretty pool. The Iftar kiosk with the golden roof is a favoured backdrop for snap-happy tourists. The small building built by Ibrahim the Mad was a picturesque place to end the daily Ramadan fast. At the western end is the Circumcision Room, built by Ibrahim. In 2023, the Mecidiye Pavilion also opened to visitors.
Also About Istanbul in Turkey
Dolmabahce Palace: In the 19th century, the Ottomans moved to Dolmabahce Palace, which is another worthy place to see on your trips around Istanbul. In the early 20th century, the founder of the Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, passed away here. The famous architect Sarkis Balyan worked on both the Topkapi and Dolmabahce palaces, and his influence is easily seen.
Sultan Ahmed III Fountain: Sitting directly outside the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, this fountain is one of hundreds throughout the city that also reflects the Ottoman days and what life was like. Fountains were a vital water source, but the architecture and stories behind their construction provide exciting insights into Istanbul.
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